Whether it’s winemaking or the culinary arts, Napa Valley is known for its craftsmanship, drawing people who seek inspiration and camaraderie among fellow artisans.
It takes dedication to craft, combined with skills and experience, to take raw materials and turn them into something of substance. These people who nurture the vineyards and farms, taking up tools of the trade in cellars and kitchens, help us savor life just a bit more.
SETTING THE STAGE
While the lineage goes back much further, certainly the launch of both the Culinary Institute of America’s (CIA) Greystone campus and Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in the mid-’90s brought new synergies between wine and food in Napa Valley to a larger stage.
Since then, the connections between those who make wine and the people who cook food have only deepened by being close to the source of their craft, be it a nearby farm where they forage, the Pacific for fresh seafood or, of course, the grapes—all are sources of inspiration by which they ply their craft and find community.
ARTISANS OF AGRICULTURE
“There is a borderless way that we live and work among agriculture,” notes Samantha Rudd, owner of both Rudd Estate winery and PRESS restaurant. “While both our wines and food can be elevated and world-class, it all starts with farming; farming to wine, farming to food.”
Chef Christopher Kostow, known for earning three stars at the former Restaurant at Meadowood, agrees. Kostow has found that growing his own produce, foraging freely and weaving wine through his menus provides a narrative of Napa Valley’s bounty. “I believe that those of us who work with food, who work with wine in Napa Valley are all members of the same artisan class,” says Kostow. “We are the makers, using what surrounds us through the seasons to tell a story on the plate and in a glass.”
A SENSE OF PLACE
Chefs creating culinary programs at the valley’s wineries are a breed of craftspeople looking to tease out the nuances of a particular wine.
Born and raised in Napa Valley, Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli, who helms the culinary program at Louis M. Martini Winery, is one of these people. Having earned his culinary chops with Napa Valley’s wines in mind at Robert Mondavi Winery and then a stellar roster of Napa Valley restaurants, Chef Meneghelli has deeply rooted skills in bringing various vineyard terroirs to the forefront in his culinary offerings.
“The balance on a plate allows the balance in our wines to really show up,” says Meneghelli, “revealing flavors that might otherwise be harder to discover and diving deeper into the experience of what a wine can be.”
SHIFTING SENSIBILITIES
There is no shortage of Michelin stars awarded to Napa Valley restaurants for their food and wine programs. (PRESS restaurant has one and Chef Kostow received several while at the Restaurant at Meadowood.) Many of these starred establishments have also delved into projects of a more casual vibe with the same attention to craftsmanship.
Chef Kostow and his wife, Martina, opened The Charter Oak restaurant in 2017 with its communal tables and rustic-refined approach to food, much of it from the restaurant’s nearby organic farm. Loveski Deli, a riff on a Jewish delicatessen, opened in 2021 at Napa’s Oxbow Public Market.
And the team at PRESS, with its first star earned in 2023 under the tutelage of Chef Philip Tessier, is opening Under-Study, a fun marketplace concept next door to the restaurant.
“I thought it would be neat to have a Spanish-style market, packed shoulder to shoulder at long counters with charcuterie, a butchery, prepared foods and pop-ups from area food vendors,” says Tessier. “We’re creating something for the community and visitors where we can bring our same standards to play in a looser experience.”
HARD WORK AND GLIMMERS OF JOY
So, what does it take to stay the course in the cultures of food and wine in Napa Valley?
“You need to have the drive to sustain your passion when cooking food or making wine here,” responds Meneghelli. “There is a level of competitiveness and sportsmanship in our community that pushes us to always stay on our toes while supporting each other along the way.”
And, it might be added, the effort requires a certain grit and resilience.
“There is so much joy in what we do here,” muses Rudd. “Including the really, really hard parts of the craft.”
